Things to Do in Puerto Escondido: A Gem on Mexico's Pacific Coast
If you're dreaming of an authentic Mexican escape, you have to set your sights on Puerto Escondido. In this article, Mark and Sharon Stevens share about the sandy and sunny beaches, local restaurants, and laid-back charm that make this a favourite destination.
Playa Manzanillo is one of Puerto’s most popular beaches. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
I’ve always had a thing for Mexico. I’ve sun-worshipped in Cancun and the Mayan Riviera, sampled the offerings of Puerto Vallarta and chilled in Cozumel. I’ve visited an almost entirely Canadian enclave in a town called Ajijic, and learned some history in both Guadalajara and Mexico City.
But this time around, my wife and I were seeking something different. Sure, we wanted the usual sun-kissed must-haves–but we also sought a place with an authentic Mexican feel.
Enter Puerto Escondido, Mexico—a secret gem southwest of Oaxaca City. Even its name appealed to us. In English, Puerto Escondido means “Hidden Port.”
Embracing a collection of gorgeous bays and coves, bordered by mountains on one side and the Pacific on the other, Puerto (that’s how many visitors and locals refer to it) lies in Oaxaca state, roughly four hundred kilometres southeast of Acapulco.
Now I don’t mind sharing Puerto’s appeal with you, but I do have one request—let’s keep this Pacific gem our little secret.
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Getting Yourself to Puerto Escondido
A big factor in that “secret” quality that makes Puerto so appealing is the fact that getting there can admittedly be a challenge. As Canadian travellers, there are no direct flights from Canada, but there are some direct flight options from the USA in states like Texas.
My wife and I flew directly to Mexico City, then booked the 1-hour-20-minute flight to Puerto on a Mexican airline (we used Viva Airbus). The advantage of this is both cost, and the fact that WestJet offers direct flights to Mexico City from Toronto, Montreal and Vancouver, while Air Canada offers two direct flights daily out of Toronto.
Another popular option with a lot of long-stay visitors is to fly into Huatulco and book a shuttle, taxi, or even catch a local bus just outside the airport to travel the roughly 100-kilometre drive to Puerto. During high season, both Air Canada and WestJet offer direct flights to Huatulco from different Canadian airports.
Finding a Puerto Place to Stay
Having heard that an area called Rinconada offered several dining options and was walking distance from four beaches, my wife and I chose to stay in an Airbnb in Rinconada. There are a lot of Airbnb and VRBO options, but you might prefer a hotel or even a villa.
Villas Carrizalillo, with twelve options, offers one of the best views in Puerto, dominating a steep hill overlooking the beach of the same name. It's the perfect spot to get away from it all (though it offers easy access to Playa Carrizalillo). Many of the villas include a kitchen, though the adjacent restaurant is one of Puerto’s best.
If you’re looking for easy access to the nightlife of Zicatela, consider Hotel Santa Fe. There are 61 rooms and suites here at this property, each unit exuding colonial charm and unique features.
Located near the popular La Punta, Casa Bacachi is a reasonably priced adults-only boutique hotel. Perfect for Bohemian wannabees, or people who don’t like kids.
Things to Do in Puerto Escondido
Now you’ve safely arrived and checked in, there’s only one more thing to do—let the fun begin.
Catch a Mexican Sunset
My wife and I rounded out our first day with a stroll to a towering headland called Mirador los Tortugas. A couple of long-stay visitors had given us the lowdown on this spot: one of Puerto’s best places to watch the sunset.
Puerto’s sunsets, like this one at Playa Zicatela, are unparalleled. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
A crowd of folks in the know are already here, anticipating that daily ritual.
The clouds tonight are painted first pink, then fire engine red. The sun spotlights the ocean’s surface, even as a whale, as if party to this spectacle, glides across our field of vision. Cheers all around as the sun disappears. No green flash (look it up if you don’t know what it is), but a wonderful spectacle just the same.
And this is just one sunset spot. We spent a week here and sunset-viewing became part of our own daily ritual. Not a bad one in the bunch.
For years, I visited Jamaica’s Negril, partly due to my conviction that it hosted the world’s best sunsets—move over, Negril.
Hit the Beaches
Myriad though Puerto Escondida’s attractions may be, it’s the beaches that do it for me. I’m a beach bum of the highest order.
Playa Manzanilla is adorned with massive rock formations and an appealing collection of shaded restaurants. Dine at one of these tables with a view, and the beach chair is included. Manzanillo shares this bay with a tiny fishing village called Puerto Angelito.
Both swimmable and pretty, Manzanillo is considered one of Puerto’s most popular beaches. I prefer Carrizalillo, even though you must descend a 167-step stairway to get there. Carrizalillo’s surf is higher than Manzanillo–evidenced by the surf lessons taking place just off a rocky headland at one end–so swimming here can be tricky. There is not a lot of shade, so you should probably do lunch here as well: once again, beach chair and umbrella included.
A lot of people consider Carrizalillo Puerto’s most beautiful, and I like it a lot, but I think Playa Coral’s the prettiest one right in Puerto: rock formations that show like nature’s own sculptures snugged down at the bottom of a steep hill. The procession of big waves crashing into those rocks adds to the visual appeal of this relatively unknown beach, but that beauty has a downside. Picturesque? Yes. Great swimming? A bit hazardous.
Playa Agua Blanca is a perfect beach for an afternoon stroll. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
Playa Agua Blanca, a half-hour drive from Puerto, may be one of the world’s best beaches for a stroll. Tricky to swim in, though you can cool off in one of several tidal pools. Massive waves constantly assault the shore here, creating a mist of seafoam that seems to shroud the far end (it’s easily 2 kilometres long) in a diaphanous veil.
With more pelicans than people, the relative isolation of this beach, along with the sheer drama of the sea, makes this one of my Puerto favourites. The surf here should be no surprise: the beach’s name–Agua Blanca–means “white water” in recognition of those ubiquitous and exhilarating waves.
Despite its distance from town, several beachside restaurants here are bustling thanks to a unique feature on the beach. Local fisherman harvest oysters not 15 metres away. They can be on your table in 10 minutes.
Puerto’s best-known beach–Zicatela–also boasts big surf. This beach stretches from Playa Principal (a fun spot to watch local kids splashing around and anchored fishing boats bobbing in the waves) to La Punta in the south. Those waves scare away most potential swimmers, but it’s another great beach for a walk.
Catch a Wave at La Punta
While the surf scares some visitors away, it’s a selling point for a segment of the population, particularly approaching La Punta. There is no better place to catch a wave than La Punta.
Newbies learn how to catch a wave a La Punta, a world-famous surf destination. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
I’m immediately attracted to the vibe we find at La Punta: laid-back and downright Bohemian. La Punta is the ultimate surfer’s destination. A wealth of shops lines a dirt road here, all kinds of places to eat that won’t break the budget. Many of those shops offer surfboard rentals, and several offer lessons.
Here we check out a row of beach bars, pulling up at one and ordering margaritas as we watch the action. Waves are omnipresent, catching some surfers unawares as they tumble into the white foam, while others catch waves with abandon.
Because the most southerly reaches of the beach are somewhat protected by the nearby headland, a few people swim, but protection is a relative term. According to one surf expert, the point break (if you’re a surfer, you already know what that is; if not, then you’re better off not knowing) at La Punta is significantly softer.
But that’s not so just a little south along Playa Zicatela. Surfers call that area of the beach the Mexican Pipeline. The Pipeline’s famous: among the world’s biggest and fastest waves come ashore here.
I watched the action for some time, considering trying to catch my own wave for about five seconds until I remembered my abject failure during a Christmas Day surf lesson off Waikiki.
Not happening. When I was young and foolish, I might have given it a shot. In the meantime, I’m happy to enjoy La Punta’s laid-back vibe, sipping another margarita and let someone else catch a wave.
Go Whale Watching
The sun hasn’t even risen one morning when my wife and I climb aboard Captain Charlie’s boat and head to sea, leaving Puerto Angelito off our stern. We’re going whale-watching. We met in town before heading out on the tour.
While catching sight of whales on local tours isn’t guaranteed, you’re almost certain to encounter some dolphins. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
On one level, it was a washout: no whales. On a lot of levels, it’s still a trip highlight. I’ve whale-watched off Tadoussac, Quebec, on Vancouver’s Salish Sea, off the north shore of Newfoundland and even caught sightings out of Puerto Vallarta. Should be a no-brainer here. These waters are the playground of humpback and gray whales, and the high season is December to February. It’s January right now.
Even so, we’re thrilled to get up close and personal with the seaward side of those gargantuan waves. We relish gorgeous views of the dramatic landscape, including clifftop mansions. We’re delighted by five or six dolphin encounters, duets and trios of these graceful animals cavorting just metres away, and we’re awestruck by huge sea turtles surfacing near our boat.
Sailors have an expression: “A bad day on the water is better than a good day on land.” I am a sailor. This was a great day.
Love the Nightlife
An almost unparalleled party vibe characterizes Puerto (thanks to all those surfer types and backpackers), but even if you’re an early-to-bed early-to-rise type, you can still love the nightlife.
Once the sun goes down things pick up at along a hopping byway called Avenida Del Morro. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
For one thing, we counted six different Happy Hours along Zicatela beach alone. Furthermore, you can still love the nightlife at La Punta and finish your evening there; the bars there are supposed to close at 11 p.m. But don't worry if you’re a nighthawk. Just head down to Zicatela after you close at La Punta.
Nightlife experts suggest starting your evening at La Punta (both Mombasa and Savanna are popular watering holes) before heading down Zicatela along Avenida Del Morro to a hopping strip of nightclubs, beach bars and discos (check out Cactus or Xcaanda).
There you could party almost to dawn, though that could be a mistake. You might miss your whale-watching tour.
Sample Puerto's Flavours
Visit Puerto and experience three standout attractions: seafood, seafood and seafood. Imagine catch of the day so fresh it was swimming at breakfast, casual beach spots offer fine dining with million-dollar views.
Start every meal with fresh guacamole (I’d consider a move to Mexico for that reason alone) or get more adventurous. Oaxaca is known for its variety of both spices and cultural influences.
Don’t miss a taste of mole negro (a cacao-based spicy sauce for chicken) or take things up a notch: chapulines are toasted grasshoppers (a delicacy I took great pleasure in avoiding).
El Nene’s pairing of Mexican favourites and seafood makes for a perfect culinary combination. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
Here are some favourites:
Espadín – This clifftop restaurant, overlooking Carrizalillo Beach, offers the best views of any spot in Puerto. It's a fine dining establishment located in an equally appealing boutique hotel called Villas Carrizalillo. Remember that mole negro I just mentioned? That’s their signature dish, ideally washed down with one of their expansive selection of quality mezcals.
El Nene – Dominated by a towering palapa roof, this spot’s décor – that thatched roof, the bamboo and rattan accoutrements – would make it worthy of a Thai island getaway. Best yet, it’s located in my favourite part of Puerto, an enclave called Rinconada, conveniently close to both Carrizalillo and Manzanillo beaches. It's a quiet area that nonetheless boasts some charming shops and several excellent restaurants.
Almoraduz – This restaurant, run by a husband-and-wife team, is also located in Rinconado (as if you’re still not convinced by this area’s appeal). According to the Michelin guide, expect “attractive presentations and bold flavours.” It’s one of only two Puerto spots that have earned a place on Michelin’s list.
Santa Fe – Located just across from Zicatela, this perfect and elegant establishment is a wonderful post-sunset spot for seafood. It’s situated in a gorgeous hotel reminiscent of a Spanish hacienda, with nice accommodations too. Stay here and get some special coffee with breakfast, sourced from their very own plantation. Best seafood we had in Puerto – and that’s saying a lot!
Visit a Local Market
If you elect to do your own cooking (we opted to prepare some food in our Airbnb), then you must visit the Mercado Benito Juarez in town. This fascinating market offers aisle after aisle of fresh produce, and their carniceria (translation: butcher) offers a wide range of meats, though the display—carcasses suspended above shop windows—can be a little intimidating. One aisle boasts a richness of spices as comprehensive and aromatic as a souk we once visited in Marrakech.
Pick up some local produce at Mercado Benito Juarez. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
Complete your grocery list with a stop at the streetside tortilla factory, then pick up those necessary souvenirs, grab some beach toys, and buy a suitcase for all those purchases.
Or don’t buy anything at all. A go-to destination for locals, a visit here offers valuable insight into local culture and tradition, just one more attraction that makes Puerto an appealing destination.
Savour Puerto’s Appeal
You’ll be sure to savour Puerto’s appeal whether you’re seeking a delightful destination where you can get away from it all, a place to satisfy your inner adventurer, or a vacation spot that lets you immerse yourself in local culture.
Enjoy the scenery – on land or on sea. Photo Credit: Sharon Matthews-Stevens
Far from the big box resorts you’ll find in other parts of Mexico, Puerto offers a laid-back vibe, particularly popular with long-stay visitors, though even a week here will ensure you fall in love with the place.
That vibe is partly due to Puerto’s primacy as a surf town, partly because getting here can be a challenge, but one thing is certain—Puerto Escondido is truly a secret gem on Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
So let’s keep it our little secret.
Mark Stevens and Sharon Matthews-Stevens
Photographer Sharon Matthews-Stevens and writing partner Mark Stevens are a multiple- award-winning team best known for their “warm weather” content, though they’ve also done Yukon winter stories, sailed the Mediterranean and learned to cook in Morocco. They’ve received awards from organizations as diverse as Ontario Tourism and the Caribbean Tourism Organization. With a career spanning more than twenty-five years, they have produced stories and photography for outlets ranging from Toronto Star to Ski Canada.